Sligo punches way above its weight in terms of archaeology and history. The county has a rich, varied and engaging heritage ranging from the long maritime legacy to incomparable Carrowmore, the oldest megalithic monuments in Ireland. No visit to Sligo is complete without dipping a toe into this fascinating history.
Literally dipping a toe into the water at Streedagh Beach links the visitor with the mighty but ill-fated Spanish Armada. Three Armada ships, The Lavia, the Juliana and the Santa Marie de Visón were all wrecked off this coast in the storms of 1588 with the dreadful loss of approximately 1,100 Spanish lives.
Storms hit along the west coast of Ireland and the ships anchored two miles offshore in an effort to ride out the Great Gale but the wind changed to the north west, driving them up on shore. Already weakened by scurvy and disease, many drowned and others were killed by English soldiers where they lay on the beach. It’s difficult to believe that this beautiful sandy beach could have been the scene of such carnage.
One survivor, Francisco de Cuéllar, penned a remarkable eyewitness account of both the shipwrecks and his escape home to Spain. Storms in 2015 exposed previously unseen remnants of the ships leading to the discovery and protection of the wrecksite in relatively shallow waters. The Underwater Archaeology Unit have since recovered a remarkable array of artefacts including gun carriage wheels, cannonballs and no less than nine bronze cannon up to three metres in length engraved with saintly emblems. Streedagh is recognised internationally as a unique wrecksite, the only known beach where three Spanish Armada boats lie close together.
From early childhood Dr Prannie Rhatigan was intrigued by the Armada connection and the speculations of her amateur historian father as to the whereabouts of the Spanish wrecks. Today she is on the Spanish Armada Ireland organising committee and each September a commemorative festival is held in Streedagh and the nearby village of Grange. Based on de Cuéllar’s account and the wrecksite, this is a compelling insight into the dramatic events four hundred years ago.
The Armada Visitor Centre in Grange is well worth a visit, full of 16th century memorabilia and giving a vivid account of the story of both the Armada and Francisco de Cuéllar.
Wild Atlantic Way Ambassador Auriel Robinson is a maritime archaeologist who brings the Armada story to life on a guided walking tour. Seatrails is the evocative name of her heritage walking tour service which brings groups of visitors on truly absorbing guided walks seamlessly combining history, archaeology and mythology.
It’s a wonderful way to gain insight through an expert guide into an aspect of Sligo that often goes unnoticed. Seatrails tours are entirely sustainable and follow Leave No Trace principles. Auriel offers a wide variety of walks including Knocknashee (translating romantically to ‘the hill of the fairies’) with Bronze Age huts and megalithic burial chambers.
Queen Maeve’s Trail brings visitors up Knocknarea Mountain, through a ruined famine village and to Queen Maeve’s grave. It incorporates a visit to the amazing megalithic complex of Carrowmore which is the largest and oldest collection of neolithic stone circles and dolmens found in Ireland. The Megalithic Trail also includes other sites at Lough Arrow and Labby Rock Portal Tomb.
Anyone looking for an insight into the history of Sligo Town will enjoy the social history and dark tourism tours led by historian Melissa Ni Mhaolanfaidh. The Dark Tales Tour reveals Sligo’s turbulent past with stories of war, execution, disease and other macabre stories. Mel uncovers the connection to Bram Stoker author of the 1897 gothic novel Dracula and the cholera epidemic which inspired him as well as the tragic history of Sligo Abbey central to W B Yeats.
It’s a spinetingling experience as she recites grim tales of crime and punishment in the exact locations where events occurred. Also popular is Mel’s Secret Scriptures tour which is a history and literary tour based on the novel by award winning author Sebastian Barry. Following in the footsteps of his characters gives an unparalleled sense of the social history and locations of the time.
Taking a guided walking tour in Sligo at any time of year is a wonderfully rewarding experience which gives a very special glimpse into the hidden heritage of this unique county.
Please see website details for each of these tour guides below:
Dr Prannie Rhatigan: www.irishseaweedkitchen.ie
Auriel Robinson: www.seatrails.ie
Melissa Ni Mhaolanfaidh: www.sligowalkingtours.com
